PROBLEM #1: Barn door solution to a noisy laundry room dilemma.
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When you don’t have a door for your laundry room, and the washer and dryer noise permeates your otherwise peaceful evening you have a PROBLEM.
SOLUTION: a door . . . obviously . . . but not just any door. I had to create and install a barn door. In this post, I’ll lay out the steps I took to create and install this door, so that you too can create your own barn door. You could use this door for any opening where you want to add some rustic charm to your space.
How to Start:
Project time: 4-5 hours
Materials I used:
- Hardware kit (Includes rollers, bar, and screws) Umax hardware Kit
- Tongue and groove pine boards – 1″x8″ by 8′ long
- poplar boards for the trim – 1″x3″ by 6′ and 8′ long
My first step was figuring out how big of a door I needed to make. I wanted it to cover the opening and overlap the door molding by a small amount. I used 34″ by 82″ for my door.
The door construction is fairly simple. I used 5 t&g (tongue and groove) pine boards. I cut them to length using a chop saw. You could also use a hand saw, jig saw, or circular saw. You will also have to rip the tongue from off one board, and the groove off of a different board. These two boards will become the two sides of the door. This is easiest with a table saw, but it could also be done with a circular saw.
To make the trim, I cut 2 of the 1×3 poplar pieces to the same width as the door – 34″. I cut 2 more poplar pieces to the length of the door minus 5 inches. Note: 1″x3″ finished boards are actually 0.75″x2.5″. So 82″(length of my door) – (2 x 2.5″) = 77″. I also cut a diagonal board 1×3 board that went from corner to corner. Cutting the angles on this board to fit it into the corners of the trim can be tricky. The easiest way to do this is to lay the trim on the door, and lay the uncut diagonal board on top of the trim. Line it up in the corners where you want it to fit, and mark on the diagonal board where the outer trim boards meet it. I made these cuts with a hand saw.
Applying a Finish:
Before I assembled any of the wood pieces together I applied the finish to them. I rubbed on a “dark walnut” stain. After that dried, I used 1 part dark grey latex paint mixed with 4 parts water. Brushing this on, gives the boards a vintage, weathered look. To get more information about this finish, check out AKA Design where I got the idea in the first place. After the finish was dry, it was time for assembly.
To start the assembly I lined up the 5 t&g boards and glued them together.
I used pocket screws and glue to attach the trim boards together. This makes a stronger joint than simply gluing a butt joint.
To attach the trim to the door, I used glue and 18 gauge brad nails. Make sure you line the trim up to the edges of the door so that it doesn’t overhang the door sides, top, or bottom. The diagonal trim board is attached the same way.
Once the barn door was complete, it was time to assemble the hardware. I followed the instructions that came with the kit. (hardware kit) I bolted the roller assemblies to the top of the door. There are also little round stops that bolt into the top of the door. These “stops” will keep the door from lifting or coming off the bar.
The rest of the installation involves attaching the steel bar to the wall. The problem I ran into, which is probably common in most houses, is that the studs do not line up with the holes in the bar that came with the kit. So I ended up finding the stud locations, and marking their locations on the bar. Then I drilled new holes in the bar. I attached the bar to the wall using the included lag screws and spacers.
Finally the last step, and the most rewarding, is to hang the barn door on the bar. You will also have to install and adjust the included stops so the door doesn’t roll off the bar.